Excalibur VI (6 month controlled release) /excalibur-6-month-plumeria-fertilizer/

Excalibur IX (9 month controlled release) /excalibur-9-plumeria-fertilizer/

Excalibur BOOST (2-3 month controlled release)  /excalibur-boost-plumeria-fertilizer-10-12-14-4-lbs/

Excalibur Fertilizers: The Ultimate Nutrient Solution for Your Plumeria

For years, plumeria enthusiasts and gardeners have struggled with the lack of a dedicated fertilizer specifically formulated to meet the unique nutrient needs of these tropical beauties. Florida Colors Nursery, through rigorous experimentation and research, has filled this gap in the market by developing a proprietary range of plumeria-specific fertilizers: Excalibur IX, Excalibur VI, and the latest addition, Excalibur BOOST.

Having understood through years of experience that plumeria thrives best when fed a balanced diet of nutrients, the team at Florida Colors Nursery committed to creating the perfect fertilizer. The objective was to produce a blend that not only offered a balanced nutrition profile but also had a dependable slow-release rate, ideal for the entire plumeria growing season. In partnership with one of the largest fertilizer companies in the US, the Nursery realized this goal, formulating the Excalibur line of fertilizers that cater precisely to the requirements of plumeria plants.

The Excalibur IX and Excalibur VI fertilizers are slow-release 11-11-13 and 11-11-14 blends respectively, enriched with essential micronutrients. The release rate is skillfully adjusted to match the nutrient intake of plumeria plants throughout their growing season. The formula is activated by moisture and heat via the osmosis process, releasing nutrients more intensively when watered, while minimizing the release rate during dry months and periods of dormancy. This smart nutrient delivery mechanism is particularly useful for plumerias growing in warm areas, often exposed to additional watering.

The latest offering, Excalibur BOOST, is a 10-12-14 blend designed to release over a shorter period of 2-3 months. Water-soluble, it provides quick nutrients, ideal for giving a boost to seedlings, transplants, newly rooted, and grafted plumeria.

Each Excalibur fertilizer variant has been crafted to provide your plumeria with the nutrients it needs to thrive. The nutrient coatings utilize osmosis, releasing the nutrients in sync with plumeria's needs. Depending on your geographical location and the associated growing season, you can choose either Excalibur VI, formulated to last for 6 months, or Excalibur IX, with a longer duration of 9 months. For instance, plumeria growers in Texas and Florida, blessed with longer growing seasons, could benefit from the 9-month variant.

Packaged in eco-friendly 4 lb., 8 lb., and 12 lb boxes, Excalibur fertilizers are available for purchase online in convenient 4 lb bags. Excalibur has received approval for sale in the Continental US, opening its doors to a nationwide market of plumeria enthusiasts.

In conclusion, the Excalibur line of fertilizers represents a significant breakthrough for plumeria care. With a unique, controlled-release mechanism and a nutrient profile tailored specifically to plumeria, healthier plants, better growth habits, and more blooms are just a purchase away. Don't miss this opportunity to give your plumeria the nutrient boost it deserves. Embark on your Excalibur journey today.

Typical Usage Rates:

• 4-4 1/2" pot = 3/4 tablespoon.
• 6" - 1 gal pot = 2 tablespoons.
• 3 gal pot = 3 tablespoons.
• 5 gal pot - 4 tablespoons.
• In the ground 1 to 2 tablespoon per 1” trunk dia.

HOW TO USE EXCALIBUR IX AND EXCALIBUR VI EXCALIBUR BOOST

Excalibur is controlled to release moisture and heat-activated granular fertilizer using the osmosis process. It is applied dry and must be watered in. It helps improve efficiency by covering the granules with 1"-2" of soil. Granular fertilizers are easier to control because you can actually see how much fertilizer you're using and where it's being dispersed. The advantages of controlled release fertilizers are that the nutrients are available gradually over time. This means that the gardener can fertilize less often, and the nutrients are provided slowly and steadily.

HOW TO USE EXCALIBUR BOOST

Excalibur BOOST is a controlled release water-soluble fertilizer designed to release over 2-3 months. The advantage of water-soluble fertilizer is it releases quickly and you will start to see results within a few days.

Fertilizers are a mix of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The ratio will be indicated by three numbers (the first is nitrogen, the middle number is phosphorous, and the third is potassium). We recommend using a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients for plumeria.

Micronutrients - The Hidden Story...And, Often Only Delivered by Slow Release Fertilizers!

There are several nutrients essential to plant growth and health that are only needed in very small quantities. These are manganese, copper, iron, chlorine, and molybdenum, and zinc.

• Chlorine is necessary for osmosis and ionic balance; it also plays a role in photosynthesis.
• Copper is a component of some enzymes and of vitamin A. Symptoms of copper deficiency include browning of leaf tips and chlorosis.
• Iron is essential for chlorophyll synthesis, which is why an iron deficiency results in chlorosis.
• Manganese activates some important enzymes involved in chlorophyll formation. Manganese deficient plants will develop chlorosis between the veins of their leaves. The availability of manganese is partially dependent on soil PH.
• Molybdenum is essential to plant health. Molybdenum is used by plants to reduce nitrates into usable forms. Some plants use it for nitrogen fixation, thus it may need to be added to some soils before seeding legumes.
• Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and also activates many enzymes. Symptoms of zinc deficiency include chlorosis and stunted growth.

Also see Bioblast, Vitazyme, Root Activator for a complete feeding program.

Shop for Excalibur Plumeria Fertilzier

Excalibur VI (6 month controlled release) /excalibur-6-month-plumeria-fertilizer/

Excalibur IX (9 month controlled release) /excalibur-9-plumeria-fertilizer/

Excalibur BOOST (2-3 month controlled release)  /excalibur-boost-plumeria-fertilizer-10-12-14-4-lbs/

Plumeria.Today    

Plumeria.Care    

PlumeriaPhotos.com    

PlumeriaSeeds.com    

PlumeriaCuttings.com    

GrowingPlumeria.com coming soon.

A Rooted Plumeria is a plumeria cutting that has been rooted and allowed to grow its own root system. Under good rooting conditions plumeria cuttings will form roots in 6-8 weeks or may take many months in cool climates. When you seed 3 or 4 full leaves it will most likely have roots. Rooted plants should be allowed to grow roots for at least 3 months prior to winter dormancy.

A Grafted Plumeria is a plumeria cutting (scion) that has been grafted to an already mature root system (rootstock). You should see leaves growing within 2 weeks, an indication the the graft took. It takes about 6 to 8 weeks after grafting before we feel it is ready to ship. Grafted plants are grafted to root systems approximately 18 to 24 months old, depending on the diameter of the Cutting.

There are many proven methods to growing plumeria from seed and you should examine to see if any could help you develop a method that works for you. This is only a guide and should be adjusted to your seed growing environment.

When I have a batch of seeds, I examine what I did in the past and determine if I can make any improvement. The following is my detailed plan for growing plumeria from seed in 2018. This plan covers from germination until they first produce blooms.

Please keep in mind your growing environment and the differences from South Florida Zone 10B. The start of your plan should correspond to when you are past the threat of a frost or freeze. You should also make plans to protect your plumeria from cold weather, just in case you have a late freeze or frost.

My goal is to know what, when, and why, so I can improve my method every year or even with each batch. Documenting all adjustments as you go will allow you to look back and better determine where you can make improvements.

Why I grow seedlings?
1. To grow a new and exciting cultivars
2. To grow rootstock for grafting
3. But most of all to see that one-of-a-kind flower for the first time.

Using the methods and products below; I have been able to get about 10% of my seedlings to bloom in less than 12 months and about 60% to bloom in 18 to 24 months. The majority of the remainder bloom from 24 to 36 months. (Some do still take 3 years and even longer.)

What you will need: Plumeria Seeds, something to soak them in, paper towels, 2” x 3” Gro-Tech FlexiPlugs and trays or plugs or good seedling soil mix to plant the seeds in, Vitazyme, Carl Pool’s Root Activator, Bioblast 7-7-7, Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae, Excalibur VI 11-11-13, Metal Labels and permanent felt tip marker. Hydrogen Peroxide and Merlin's Potion for new experiments.

Seed selection

Seed selection is very important when growing plumeria seeds. Plumeria Rubra seeds do not produce true to their parents. Sometimes a seedling will look like its parent, but it will never be exactly the same. A few characteristics to consider:

• Flower: Color, size, keeping quality (how long it lasts after picking), fragrance, etc.
• Tree: Growing habit, size, etc.
• Leaves: Color, size, etc.
• Blooming: Quality, size of inflorescence/flower stalk, number of flowers blooming at the same time, how long does it bloom, etc.

I'm always trying to improve my chances of getting that spectacular plumeria seedling.

If possible:

• Select a pod parent that is known to produce the characteristics you desire or at least a pod parent that has the characteristics you desire.
• Obtain seeds from trusted growers.
• Find out the history of the pod, e.g., What’s growing close to the pod? Did they bloom at the same time? Was it cross pollinated, manually pollinated, or pollinated by nature?
• Obtain all the seeds from a pod when possible.
• Select seeds from a healthy tree.
• Select seeds that are plump and look healthy.

Before you plant your seeds

Soak plumeria seeds to test viability and soften the shell to give them a kick start.

When: Plumeria seeds germinate best in the spring, but can be germinated any time if provided with enough moisture and warmth staying above 60 degrees.

What: Use quality seeds, warm water and Vitazyme

How:

1. First examine each seed by placing it between two fingers. If they have some thickness, they most likely are viable. If they feel paper thin, they most likely are not viable.
2. For faster germination and rooting, dilute Vitazyme with warm water at a rate of 1 oz to 19 oz of water, a 5% solution and dip or mist both side of the seed. Allow seeds to dry prior to planting or soaking.
3. For a soaking mixture, dilute Vitazyme with warm water at a rate of about 1.29% or 1 oz to 128 oz (1 gallon).
4. Place your seeds in the container, place in a warm area and allow to soak for approximately 4-6 hours (or even overnight). Soaking longer than overnight could cause damage to the seeds. Seeds that are very thin and are still floating are most likely not viable. To further test this, plant all the seeds, but mark the ones that did not sink.
5. Check your seeds after several hours to see which seeds are absorbing enough liquid to allow germination and to sink to the bottom.
6. Do not allow your seeds to dry out before you plant them.
7. Now your seeds are ready to plant.

Why:

1. To soften the seed’s protective coating
2. To allow the seed to absorb as much water as possible
3. To test the viability of the seed
4. To provide nutrients as early as possible, helping germination and starting the rooting process sooner

Preparing Plugs

When: Prior to planting seeds in plugs.

What: 2”x3” Grow-Tech peat plugs, warm water, Root Activator, and Vitazyme.

What we suggest: A mixture of warm water, Vitazyme and Carl Pool’s Root Activator.

How: Soak your plugs in a mixture of 1 gal of warm water, 2 oz Root Activator and 1 oz Vitazyme for about 2 hours.

Why: Vitazyme is a bio stimulate with vitamins that helps the overall health of the seeds and the Root Activator adheres to the plugs or soil and give the roots a kick-start.

I use the plugs because they hold the right amount of moisture and provide ample aeration that allows the new roots to breath.

Watering: Keep your plugs wet or leave them soaking until you are ready to plant the seeds.

Planting your seeds

When: Plant your seeds right after soaking into the prepared plugs. DO NOT allow either to dry out. If they dry out they could be damaged.

Plugs, Pots or Trays, After Soaking, For the seeds I grow for new cultivars, I prefer planting the seeds directly into 2" x 3" Grow-Tech FlexiPlugs, a foam peat plug. For the seeds I'm growing for rootstock in flat trays or 4" pots.

What: Carefully selected plumeria seeds, 2”x3” Grow-Tech FlexiPlugs. Warm water, Root activator and Vitazyme. You will also need a 36-hole tray and a flat for the plugs. Cover is optional.

Why: The reason I use the plugs is they hold moisture allowing me to keep them soaked with water and still providing ample aeration and allowing the new roots to breath. I use the 2” x 3” FlexiPlugs that allows me up to 14-21 days before I have to transplant to pots.

Watering – I grow Plumeria seeds in full sun and water 2-3 time a day depending on the weather. My goal is to keep the plugs very moist to the touch. I have had no damping off or rotting problems with this method.

Start Fertilizing – Foliage

When: Before transplanting the plugs into pots, after three or four true leaves have grown. I use the same mix ( see below) approximately every two weeks

What: BioBlast 7-7-7 NPK fertilizer, Vitazyme

How: Foliar feeding early in the morning or late in the evening with Bioblast at 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and Vitazyme at 1 tablespoon per gallon.. Do not spray in the hot sun it will burn the seedling leaves.

Why: Seedlings have seed leaves that provide them with nutrients for the first few weeks of their life, but when the seed leaves dry up and fall off the seedling needs nutrients. Bioblast works with every part of your plant. Soil organisms are invigorated with Vitazyme bio-stimulants providing quicker, more vigorous growth. Roots are encouraged with our Root Activator. A balanced 7-7-7 NPK provides the essentials of plant growth and structure. B-Vitamins and Zinc encourage a robust immune system, while Iron promotes chlorophyll production in the leaves.

Watering – I continue to grow Plumeria the seedlings in full sun and water at least 2-3 time a day depending on the weather. My goal is to keep the plugs moist to the touch. I’ve had no damping off or rotting problems.

Transplanting to Pots and Fertilizing

When: As soon as I see roots sticking out of the plugs, transplant into larger pots. Normally I will use 1 gal pots, but this year I’m using 7.5 gal squat pots. Approximately 14 days after planting in the plugs.

What: ProMix BX Mycorrhizae, Excalibur VI 11-11-13 with micronutrients, Vitazyme and Root activator.

How: Fill a 1 gal. pot with a mixture of ProMix BX Mycorrhizae mixed with 2 tablespoons of Excalibur Vi. Fill a 7 1/2 gal. squat pot with ProMix BX Mycorrhizae or the mix of you choice, place a hole in the mix about the size of a 1 gal pot, port the contents of the 1 gal in the hole, then punch a whole about the size of the FlexiPlug (about 2"x3") in the center of the filled 7 1/2 gal pot. Place the plug in the whole and gently press mix firmly around the plug. Water in well with a mix of Vitazyme 1 oz to 1 gal and Root Activator 2 oz to 1 gal. You may need to add more soil mix if the plug is not covered completely with at least ½” of mix. Water again the next day and then when the soil is almost dry. I would suggest using a water meter from time to time to verify the moisture content. It is very important the soil does not stay wet.

Why: Promix BX contains Mycorrhizae and is a fast draining mix. The Excalibur VI, a 6 month granular slow release fertilizer designed specifically for plumeria that provides all the nutrients a seedling needs to grow strong. Vitazyme a bio-stimulate helps the overall health of the seedlings and the Root Activator adheres to the soil and is there to help the roots develop and grow faster.

Watering – Water once a day for the first two days, then water when soil is barely moist. At this point I check with a moisture meter and water when on the low side of moist. It is important not to over water, keeping the excess soil mix from becoming water soaked. It is also important not to allow the root zone to become dry.

Fertilizing – Throughout the growing season

When: Apply Excalibur VI every six months, Foliar feed every two weeks to every month with BioBlast.

What: Excalibur VI 11-11-13, BioBlast 7-7-7, Vitazyme and Carl Pool's Root activator

How: After 6 months, I spread 3 or 4 tablespoons of Excalibur VI on the top of the soil and mix in the top 1-2” of the soil. The seedling should still be in the 7 1/2 gal squat pot. Foliar feed with BioBlast 1 oz to 1 galon and Vitazyme 1 oz to 1 gal every month or less. Drench with Vitazyme and Root Activator in the Early Spring or if transplanting.

Why: Excalibur provide a balanced slow release fertilizer specifically designed for plumeria. BioBlast works with every part of your plant. Soil organisms are invigorated with Vitazyme bio-stimulants providing quicker, more vigorous growth. Roots are encouraged with our Root Activator.

If possible, do not let seedlings go dormant their first winter. You can treat seedlings as adult plumeria after the first growing season.

Keep looking for more space, they will grow!

More details on how we grow seedling for root stock and for new cultivars can be found on Plumeria Seeds

How it Works:

• When a product is out of stock, a box is displayed on that product page to enter your email address.
• Put your email in the "Notify Me" box on each product that you want to be notified when it's back in stock.
• When the item is back in stock, we will send you one email for each product.
• If you do not respond to the email fast enough and the item is already sold out, You will need to add your email again to the list. It doesn't hurt to add your email again if you are not sure.
• The system checks every six hours for restocked products, then sends out emails within 15 minutes after a product is determined to be back in stock.
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• You need to keep adding your email to the list after the emails are sent out. It doesn't hurt to add again if you are not sure.

We are active on facebook and many times will post a notice to watch your email. Sometimes this can give you advanced notice.
Please join us at: https://www.facebook.com/groups/floridacolors/

I hope this helps explain how Florida Colors' "Notify Me" works.

The goal is to know what, when and why, so you can improve every year by giving your plumeria the best growing conditions. Making a plan and documenting all adjustments will allow you to look back and hopefully determine where you can make improvements.

At the beginning of each season, we examine what we did last year and try to determine how we can improve our methods and products. The following is an outline of what we're planning for our 2017 Care Regimen at Florida Colors. Please keep in mind your growing environment and how it differs from South Florida Zone 10B. The start of your plan should correspond to when you are past the threat of a frost or freeze. You should also make a plan to protect you plumeria from cold weather, just in case you get caught.

Before your spring growing season starts

I highly suggest getting a Soil Test to determine what nutrients your soil has or doesn't have. The more you know about your soil and environment the better decisions you can make about caring for your plumeria. The soil test will indicate what nutrients are present, but locked up or that you need micro nutrients.

Removing damaged branches and roots.

When: Prior to putting them out for spring.

What: Start by checking your plumeria for signs of insects, branch or root rot, soft branches, bent branches or broken branches.

How: Cut all damaged branches until you see all white when possible. Trim roots until you see white or green.

Why: Remove dead, damaged and diseased branches and roots to help prevent insect & decay organisms from entering the plumeria. Eliminate crossing branches to prevent damage caused by their rubbing against each other.

Checking and Spraying tips for insects

When: Prior to putting them out for spring from storage or as leaves and blooms start to grow

Greenhouses & pots, you should have been controlling pest all winter. But it is still a good idea to treat before taking out. I suggest you spray two weeks prior to taking them out and again right after taking out for Spring.
In the ground, I suggest you start spraying as soon as you see the leaves emerging. (Do not spray in direct sunlight or on dehydrated plants)

What: Suggest - Summit Year-Round Spray Oil

How: Spray or mist to cover entire plant.

Why: By treating with Year-Round Spray Oil or similar you kill the insects and eggs. Giving your plants a good healthy start. Horticultural oil controls insects without synthetic chemicals. Mites including: Rust Mite / Spider Mite (also eggs), Scales including: Black Scale, California Red Scale, Whitefly and Blackfly (also eggs), Sooty Mold.

Plumeria waking up from Dormancy

When: As soon as you see sign of your plumeria waking up and if the weather allows.

What: Soak your plumeria roots with a mixture of water, root activator and a bio stimulate to help give them a kick-start.

What we suggest: A mixture of Vitazyme and Carl Pool’s Root Activator.

How: Soak your bare rooted plants for about 1 hour. Soak your potted plants from bottom up or drench. Drench you're in ground plants with 1 to 2 gals.

Why: A bio stimulate helps the overall health of the plants and the root activator give the roots a kick-start with what they need to wake up and start growing as soon as possible.

Watering - Water heavy for the first two days and water heavy every other day for the first week. After that water as needed.

Re-potting or adding soil

When: In the Spring or when they outgrow their pots or when they need additional soil to top off the pot.

What: A good well-balanced and well draining soil. I prefer to use soil without any fertilizers and a good decomposed natural mulch without additives.

What we suggest: Promix BX Mycorrhizae or similar soil mix (specially to start out the season or a mixture of 1/3 Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss, 1/3 coir and 1/3 Perlite - horticultural grade.) or a similar soil mix

How: The goal is to provide new soil to add back washed away nutrients to the roots. Gently shake of as much of the old soil as possible and fill in with fresh soil. Water in well and add more soil as needed. I also like to add decomposed natural mulch, 1”-2” in bottom and 1”-2” on top of pots depending on the pot size. This adds some organic mater as it decomposes and helps keep the weeds out and moisture in.

Why: Fresh soil provides aeration, retains moisture and adds back nutrients that were washed out. Over the course of time, the organic materials that the soil less mix is made from break down and decompose to the point where you will lose the drainage and aeration properties that are inherent in soil less container medias. When that happens, discard the old soil to the compost pile or to the garden and refill the container with fresh soil mix.

Mulching - in ground plants – use decomposed mulch to add nutrients and organic matter as the mulch decomposes. The mulch on the top also helps keep weeds down and helps retain moisture. In the ground, I cover the ground around the trunk with natural mulch partially decomposed up to 12” deep each year.

Watering – Always water well for the next two or three days.

First fertilizing – Granular

When: At the beginning of the growing season

What: Use a balanced granular slow release fertilizer with micro nutrients.

What we suggest: Excalibur VI (6 month) and IX (9 month) with a NPK of 11-11-13 and micro nutrients designed specifically for Plumeria or a similar fertilizer

How: Mix in with the soil, usually in the top 1”- 2” and water well.

Why: Granular fertilizer is designed to feed your plumeria from the roots, healthy roots ultimately produces healthy plants. We have found that a balanced NPK fertilizer with micro nutrients produce very healthy growth, promotes blooming, bloom size and seed production. It is very important to not add any fertilizer high in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium or anything else unless you know your plumeria needs it.

Foliage Fertilizing – Thru out the growing season

When: From every two weeks to every month.

What: A Balanced fertilizer with micro nutrients.

What we suggest: Bioblast with micro nutrients and a NPK of 7-7-7. We also spray with Vitazyme every time we spray with fertilizers or similar fertilizers.

How: Foliar feeding.

Why: This is used to improve the overall health from the top down and give the leaves and blooms nutrients during stressful times.

Bioblast 7-7-7
Plant Food & Biostimulant

The future of plant growth is here. Bioblast is innovation for your plants and is the ultimate plant food and growth activator.

Bioblast works with every part of your plant. Soil organisms are invigorated with Vitzyme biostimulants providing quicker, more vigorous growth. Rooting is encouraged with our rooting agents. A balanced NPK provides the essentials of plant growth and structure. B-Vitamins and Zinc encourage a robust immune system, while Iron promotes chlorophyll production in the leaves. Bioblast is innovation for your plants. Plant Food

Great for use on all types of plants, for soil improvement, or as a compost starter.

• PLANT FOOD
• B-VITAMINS
• ROOTING AGENT
• BIO-ACTIVATORS

Guaranteed Analysis

Total Nitrogen (N)…. 7.00%
2.20% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
4.80% Urea Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5)… 7.00%
Soluble Potash (K2O)… 7.00%
Sulfur (S)… 0.10%
Iron (Fe) 0.40%
Zinc (Zn) 0.03%

Application

Mix 1 Tbsp per gallon of water – or 2 capfuls if you don’t have a measure. Apply once per week or as needed. Reduce by 50% during extreme heat or for indoor plants. Safe when used as directed. Will not harm roots or leaves even in hot, dry weather.

https://www.floridacolorsplumeria.com/bioblast-for...

Vitazyme - Organic Biostimulant Concentrate - 1 liter - For home use 1/2 tsp./gallon of water for watering-in and 1 oz/gallon of water for garden foliar applications. Can be tank mixed with anything using any type of spray equipment and can be used through irrigation as well. 100% water soluble and non-toxic.

Vitazyme represents a breakthrough to larger, more profitable crop yields, and healthier plants while promoting a more sustainable approach to agriculture. Standard chemical approaches have helped spur the 20th century farming revolution, but have created potential toxicity problems for farmers, consumers and the environment. In addition, these inputs are expensive and have driven many farmers to reconsider their approach. Vitazyme helps alleviate these difficult environmental and production challenges while increasing profits.

WHAT IS VITAZYME
Vitazyme is an all-natural liquid biostimulant, consisting of particular biological activators that are created through a proprietary fermentation process. These active agents include vitamins, enzymes, triacontanol and other powerful but gentle growth stimulators.

Agriculture in the future must emphasize the use of biological systems, and not rely solely upon chemical approaches, to achieve long term soil productivity. Vitazyme promotes soil life by working with the natural ecosystem to invigorate rhizoshperic activity.

Vitazyme is one of the most profitable inputs you can use in your agricultural operation. You always get a return on your investment, whether it comes from better quality parameters that command a higher market price or sheer yield increase or both. Starting any crop with Vitazyme can greatly enhance the plants ability to uptake nutrients giving them the boost they need to launch them into growth. One to three more treatments throughout the crop cycle can greatly enhance the plants ability to reach its genetic potential.

Vitazyme is certified by both BCS and OMRI
OMRI
BCS
Washington Organics Certification
California Organics Certification

Vitazyme is safe and sustainable, making it a product that can be used indefinitely without any environmental concerns. Vitazyme is an all-natural liquid biostimulant, consisting of particular biological activators that are created through a proprietary fermentation process. These active agents include b vitamins, enzymes, triacontanol, brassinosteroids, kinetin (a form of cytokinin), gibberellic acid, glycosides and other powerful but gentle growth stimulators.

Agriculture in the future must emphasize the use of biological systems, and not rely solely upon chemical approaches, to achieve long term soil productivity. Vitazyme promotes soil life by working with the natural ecosystem to invigorate rhizospheric activity. 

https://www.floridacolorsplumeria.com/vitazyme-1-liter/ 

Why We Graft Plumeria

Grafting Plumeria

Plumeria also know as Frangipani is a tropical plant that produces a delicately scented bloom. Plumeria are common in areas such as Hawaii where warm temperatures and humidity yield many varieties and colors of the flowers.

Plumeria are often grafted to produce new plants. The benefits to grafting include a established root system and a plant that produces mature blooms sooner while staying true to the parent.

Plumeria are easy to root and roots will form in as little as 6 to 8 weeks, but new roots are very soft and will break at the slightest movement. Cuttings must have enough time to develop a good root system prior to winter dormancy. Many rooted cuttings do not make it past the first winter.

If you are going to grow Plumeria from cuttings then it would be best to start in the spring with as large a cutting as possibly. Stay away of known hard rooting varieties and pencil size cuttings.

Grafting allows us to take a cutting and place it onto a strong robust rootstock with a fully developed root system that will give your plant the start it needs.

The main reason to graft Plumeria cuttings are:

• Grafted cuttings can have a fully functional root system within 10-14 days. Rooting a cutting can take 4-8 weeks for new roots to form.
• A grafted plant allows us to take a cutting and place it onto a fully developed root system.
• The growth of a grafted plant will be at minimum of one-year ahead of a rooted cutting plant.
• You can leave Inflorescent on grafted cuttings. An Inflorescent left on newly rooting cuttings will slow down the development of the roots.
• A grafted cutting will bloom sooner and produce more than a newly rooted cutting.
• A grafted bloom will be a normal flower. Newly rooted cuttings will often produce an inferior flower, called a root bloom.
• Rare and hard to find Plumeria are more likely to be difficult to root from cutting.
• A single Plumeria tree can have multiple varieties grafted onto it forming a multi variety tree.
• Grafted Plumeria have a higher survival rate, resulting in many of our customer sending us failed rooting attempts in an effort to save their rare and valuable Plumeria. Our smart customers send it to us right away, before it has a chance to get stressed out.

Soaking seeds before planting is an old-time gardener’s trick that many new gardeners are not aware of. When you soak seeds before planting, you can test the viability and significantly decrease the amount of time it takes for a seed to germinate.

Reasons for Soaking Plumeria Seeds

What happens to plumeria seeds when you soak them? Why should you soak plumeria seeds?

In the wild, a seed can expect to encounter harsh heat and cold, very wet or dry conditions and may even need to survive. Plumeria seeds have developed over millions of years with defenses to survive awful conditions. But in your modern day garden, a plumeria seed is pampered. Soaking seeds before planting helps you to break down the seed’s natural defenses against what it expects from Mother Nature, which then allows it to germinate faster.

Another reason is that while Mother Nature actively assaults seeds, she also gave those seeds an internal gauge to help them know when they should grow. For most seeds, moisture levels play a big role in alerting a seed to optimal grow times. By soaking the seeds, you can quickly boost the moisture content around the seeds, which signals to the seed that it is now safe to grow.

And lastly, soaking a plumeria is a good way to test the viability. If the seed plumps up after several hours you know it is a good chance that it is still viable. In nature with natural rainfall, this process can take some time. But when you soak your seeds, this process is sped up and only take a few hours or overnight.

How to Soak Plumeria Seeds before Planting

Seed soaking, at a basic level needs two things: seeds and water.

Some methods for seed soaking may substitute the water for a solutions with Super Thrive or B1. The addition of vitamins to the solution are meant to enhance the germination process and give the seed a stronger start. But these solutions are not necessary in most cases. For most seeds, water will work just fine.

Take a small bowl and fill it with water from your tap, as hot as your tap will allow.

Once your bowl is filled with hot water, place your seeds inside the bowl, then allow the seeds to stay in the water as it cools down. Common questions at this point include “How long should seeds be soaked?” and “Can you over soak seeds?” Yes, you can over soak seeds. Too much soaking in water and a seed will drown. It is recommended that you only soak most seeds for 8 to 12 hours and no more than 18 hours. The seeds of some species of plants can survive longer soakings, but you should only do this if the specific instructions for this species recommend so.

There are things you can do to improve how well your seeds react to soaking. Large seeds or seeds with particularly hard coats can benefit from scarification before soaking. Scarification means to damage the seed coat in some way so that the water is better able to penetrate the seed. Scarification can be done through several methods. These include rubbing the seed on fine grain sand paper or nicking the seed coat with a knife.

After soaking your seeds, they can be planted as directed. The benefit of soaking seeds before planting is that your germination time will be reduced and you can see which one are most likely to germinate, which means you can have happy, growing plants faster.

So to create the best possible fertilizer for Plumeria, we needed to have one formulated to our specifications just for Plumeria. The fertilizer had to have a balance of needed nutrients, but also had to have a dependable slow release rate for the entire growing season. We wanted to market nation wide so we choose Harrell's Fertilizers, one of the largest fertilizer companies in the US. After many years of experimenting and research we came up with a slow released 11-11-13 poly cote with micronutrients that lasts 9-12 months. The release rate was formulated to release the nutrients as Plumeria needs them over the growing season. The formula is activated by moisture and heat, but mostly by moisture. Releasing more when you water more, minimizes the release rate during dry months and dormancy.

Excalibur IX is a Florida Colors Nursery exclusive custom mixed fertilizer that's been formulated specifically for Plumeria. The ingredients are formulated to provide your plumeria with the nutrients it needs to thrive. The poly cote has been formulated to release the nutrients when plumeria need it most.

A slow release fertilizer designed to be used once and last 9 to 12 months

Sold online in 16oz, 32oz and 64oz containers. It is also available in large container for local pickup only.

Excalibur IX 11-11-13 is approved for sell in the Continental US.

Typical Usage Rates:
4-4 1/2" = 3/4 tbls.
6" - 1 gal = 1-2 tbls.
3 gal = 3 tbls.
5 gal - 4 tbls.

Excalibur IX is a slow release granular fertilizer, is applied dry and must be watered in. Granular fertilizers are easier to control because you can actually see how much fertilizer you're using and where it's being dispersed. Advantages of slow release fertilizers are that the nutrients are available gradually over time. This means that the gardener can fertilize less often, and the nutrients are provided slowly and steadily. This is how most plants prefer to be fed and helps them grow well.

Fertilizers are a mix of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The ratio will be indicated by three numbers (the first is nitrogen, the middle number is phosphorous, and the third is potassium). We recommend using a  balance fertilizer with micronutrients for plumeria.

Micronutrients - The Hidden Story...And, Often Only Delivered by Slow Release Fertilizers!

There are several nutrients essential to plant growth and health that are only needed in very small quantities. These are manganese, copper, iron, chlorine, and molybdenum and zinc.

Chlorine is necessary for osmosis and ionic balance; it also plays a role in photosynthesis.

Copper is a component of some enzymes and of vitamin A. Symptoms of copper deficiency include browning of leaf tips and chlorosis.

Iron is essential for chlorophyll synthesis, which is why an iron deficiency results in chlorosis.

Manganese activates some important enzymes involved in chrlorophyll formation. Manganese deficient plants will develop chlorosis between the veins of its leaves. The availability of manganese is partially dependent on soil pH.

Molybdenum is essential to plant health. Molybdenum is used by plants to reduce nitrates into usable forms. Some plants use it for nitrogen fixation, thus it may need to be added to some soils before seeding legumes.

Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation, and also activates many enzymes. Symptoms of zinc deficiency include chlorosis and stunted growth.

Follow this link for all sizes offered: http://www.floridacolorsplumeria.com/plumeria-fertilizer/

FERTILIZING TIP: When you apply fertilizer, spread a layer of soil on top of the fertilizer or mix in with the top two inches of soil. This allows the fertilizer pellets to be surrounded by soil and allow a more effecient release of nutrients. Just a good practice with any time released fertilizer.

Typical Usage Rates: 4-4 1/2" = 3/4 tbls. 6" - 1 gal = 1-2 tbls. 3 gal = 3 tbls. 5 gal - 4 tbls. (1 oz = 2 tbls.)

Phosphorus – too much of a good thing

Why we use a balanced fertilizer and not a bloom buster, the fact is, high phosphorus levels in fertilizer do not promote more bloom, and it’s very possible these fertilizers may be doing more harm than good.

Fertilizer nutrients

A brief review of the macronutrients included in complete fertilizers: nitrogen (N) is involved in photosynthesis as part of the chlorophyll molecule and promotes vegetative growth; phosphorus (P) supports the transfer of energy throughout the plant for root development and flowering; and potassium (K) is an important part of plant metabolism, strengthening its overall health.

The need for fertilizer was produced by increased industrialization in farming in the early 20t century that resulted in increased food production.

Field soils were high in mineral content which tied up soluble phosphorus, leading to the theory that increasing the application of this necessary nutrient would ensure that at least some of it would be available to plants. In addition, if soils were cold, availability of phosphorus was limited, reinforcing the idea of “more is better.”

Nutrient availability

Our neighborhood soils, while impacted (literally) by development, usually retain more nutrients than heavily used agricultural fields. Whereas nitrogen moves freely and can be leeched from the soil, phosphorus is not mobile. High levels of phosphorus stay in the ground and take on different chemical forms. Adding to the complexity of the issue, the amount of nutrients in the soil is not necessarily what the plant receives – availability is the key factor in nutrient uptake.

Availability of nutrients to the plant is affected by a number of things: drainage, soil structure, and most importantly, soil pH, a number that indicates the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. Nutrients’ chemical forms are affected by a soil’s pH measurement based on a 1-10 scale with 7 considered neutral. The lower the pH, the higher the soil acidity; alkalinity is indicated by numbers on the high end of the scale. Different nutrients are impacted in different ways by pH levels. Phosphorus fixates, or becomes immobile, in the soil quickly after application. This fixation is minimized at a pH level of 6.0-7.0. So all the extra phosphorus in fertilizer will become unavailable at pH levels above or below that range. What looks like phosphorus deficiency may actually be due to the fixation of this necessary nutrient in the ground, due to a too low or too high PH.

Another question to consider is the amount of phosphorus a plumeria plant can use. Analysis of plant tissues indicate that the amount of phosphorus in those tissues is around 1/6 of the amount of nitrogen and 1/4 that of potassium. In other words, of the three, phosphorus exists in the smallest amounts, leading one to wonder how much extra phosphorus the plant needs. Research linking increased phosphorus levels to increased blooming is scarce, while there is sound research that demonstrates that only small amounts of phosphorus are needed for bloom.

There is no plant that uses more phosphorus than nitrogen and potassium.

Dangers of too much phosphorus

All of this information becomes critical for the gardener when one learns about the negative effects of too much phosphorus in the soil. Phosphorus carries a chemical charge that competes with other micronutrients for plant uptake. Excess amounts result in leaf chlorosis because iron, manganese, and zinc are not available to the plant. Leaf tissue turns yellow while veins stay green. Adding more of these deficient nutrients is useless because they already exist in good amounts in the soil. Foliar sprays of micronutrients such as iron can help because they are directly applied to the weakening plant tissue rather than absorbed by the roots.

In addition, phosphorus inhibits the growth of mycorrhizae in the soil around the plumeria plant. Plumeria roots form a symbiotic relationship with these beneficial fungi, providing carbohydrates in exchange for phosphorus which the fungi can find beyond the plant’s roots. When the plumeria has more than enough phosphorus it doesn’t need the mycorrhizae and withdraws its support. Mycorrhizal growth plays a key part in healthy soil.

Limiting phosphorus application

What you have read so far should convince you of the importance of soil testing before you diagnose nutrient deficiencies. The plant may look like it is suffering a deficiency because of limited availability instead of low nutrient levels. Where this becomes ironic is when the gardener decides to dose the plant with something it already has too much of, such as phosphorus.

So, it’s time to throw out the bloom boosting fertilizers with their high phosphorus levels. Any synthetic fertilizer with a high middle number (P) is going to overload your soil with phosphorus. As summer progresses and the leaves of your plumeria trees turn yellow, you may be tempted to add something to the soil, such as iron or magnesium (Su-Po-Mag). By doing this, without testing your soil, you may end up worsening the problem.

It’s hard to hold back fertilizing your plumerias, especially when we know that plumerias are heavy feeders. Nitrogen does need to be replaced to a larger degree than the other two major nutrient because it is very mobile, but too much nitrogen will result in lanky growth, lots of leaves and fewer blooms. Some plumerians claim that dropping nitrogen levels will increase bloom because less plant energy will be spent on foliage. However, this does not mean the other two nutrients should be increased. Using natural sources of nitrogen, such as alfalfa meal, keeps levels of N low and will not hurt the environment as much as chemical ones will; in addition, natural sources usually have other trace elements that support plumeria health.

The bottom line? What you put in the ground is not necessarily what the plumeria will take up – availability of nutrients are affected by pH and other soil factors. If you think you have problems with nutrient deficiencies, get your soil tested. Finally, don’t use anything that has a phosphorus number for ground applications higher than nitrogen or potassium. Your blooms don’t benefit and your soil will be overloaded. However, you can safely us high phosphorus as foliar feeds, just not all the time. Spraying on the leaves and tips minimize the effects of phosphorus buildup and can actually help the bloom production.

Our system has been estimating the shipping way too high. We have installed a much more accurate shipping module. We will always be looking for ways to make you online experience with us as easy and user friendly as possible.

It is difficult to estimate the exact shipping, because every plant is a different size and weight.

Florida Colors only charges our actual cost for shipping! We ship using USPS two day priority. Which means it will usually get there in 2-3 days. We insure all shipments.